МОДА В КОНТЕКСТІ ХУДОЖНІХ ПРАКТИК ХХ СТОЛІТТЯ

Мельник, Мирослав Тарасович

dc.contributor.author	Мельник, Мирослав Тарасович
dc.date.accessioned	2021-06-08T09:25:08Z
dc.date.available	2021-06-08T09:25:08Z
dc.date.issued	2008
dc.identifier.citation	Мельник М. Т. Мода в контексті художніх практик XX ст. : автореф. дис. на здобуття наук. ступ. канд. мистецтвознавства : спец. 26.00.01 "Теорія та історія культури" / Мирослав Тарасович Мельник ; Київ. нац. ун-т культури і мистецтв. К., 2008. 19 с.	uk_UA
dc.identifier.uri	http://elib.nakkkim.edu.ua/handle/123456789/3012
dc.description	The dissertation analyzes fashion practices from the end of 19th to the beginning of 21st centuries. With this period, they constituted an original phenomenon of artistic culture, that had not been studied in detail before. The study incorporates a historical analysis of fashion and art tendencies. It delineates historical and cultural factors, which have contributed to the fashion industry in the 20th century. In modern culture, the fashion is regarded as a kind of rather complicated system which brings together artistic and commercial activities. The object of the investigation is artistic aspects of fashion. The investigation defines fundamental substance of the words “mode”, “fashion”, “vogue”, “style” and analyzes scientific literature on the theme. For the first time fashion was mentioned in the investigations on etiquette and art by Michel de Montaigne, Jean de la Bruerre, John Locke. Later it was the object of attention by many prominent scientists. The dissertation distinguishes such conceptual approaches to a problem of fashion: historical, philosophically-aesthetical, socio-psychological, anthropological, economical, semiotic, structural, communicative, art-theoretical. In the view of art theory the fashion stylistically unites plastic and decorative features most of arts. It is an important form of communication between them, which unifies their forms. The fashion is a polyfunctional phenomenon. It has great influence onto individual’s world outlook, behavior, life style, cultural wealth, social adaptation, communication and ideology. All these functions are implemented because the fashion marks cultural objects socially for a very short space of time and incites culture system to a renewal. In the narrow sense of the word, the fashion could be considered like a particular sphere of art, which creates and popularizes most actual appearances (dress, footwear, accessories, hairstyle and makeup). The fashion produces ideal contemporary images, which represent actual tastes of majority. These images can be a work of art (Haute couture) or just an ordinary serial commercial product. Anyway, the fashion is an applied art tightly connected with architecture and painting. The fashion had been appreciated as a kind of art only at the end of 19th century. During the period of Modern style, the costume developed on the same principles as the other arts, and, with the use of a corset, has turn women into a beautiful nymph. Later fauvism, cubism and futurism influence on the fashion. On the other side, technical progress makes clothes more simple and comfortable. In the 1930-th Surrealism has brought into fashion creation new principle and techniques: automaticity, montage, accident composing, absurdity, nonsensicality, combination of inconsistent, parody, double sensing, shocking. Surrealistic self-irony, humor, gaming make possible the new ironic attitude toward the fashion. After that, many designers can pay no attention to rationality or good taste. In spite of this, during period of Modern, fashion developed as a kind of innovative decorative art and costume remained the prime part of fashion image. In the 1960-th, pop art treats equally Haute Couture and confection. That makes possible new kind of practices in the art of fashion - prêt-a-porter. Surrealism and pop art prepared coming of postmodern entirely. The last one brings in art practices pluralism, indifference to novelty, cynicism, nostalgia, deconstruction, gaming, anarchy, quotation. Postmodern fashion proposed simulacres instead of costumes. Simulation demanded not only material objects, but artifacts - complicated and overfilled with signs. The value of signs depended on cultural aura, made by a big team of specialists in show, photography, style, makeup, periodicals, advertisement. All of them have a great influence on images appreciation and help designer to turn their business into a brand. The fashion brads extend their power on many spheres and propose not only clothes, but also lifestyles. Their name is much more valuable than their production. In the conditions of globalization, they bring a danger of cultural unification and that is the main reason to create fashion according to ethnic traditions. During soviet period Ukrainian fashion remained behind the world most progressive tendencies. It distinguished valuably only after declaration of independence. The modern Ukrainian fashion system includes the whole of essential infrastructure and has great potential for development.	uk_UA
dc.description.abstract	Дисертація присвячена дослідженню напрямів моди в контексті художньої культури ХХ століття. Виявляється зміст поняття „мода”, аналізується наукова література з досліджуваної проблеми, розглядаються основні концептуальні підходи до осмислення моди як художнього явища, досліджується її природа, характерні особливості і функції. Модні образи розглядаються як художні форми буття моди. Аналізуються їх властивості, специфіка створення і функціонування у ХХ ст., простежується вплив головних мистецьких течій на їх пластично-декоративне вирішення, виявляються особливості прояву стилістичних ознак в художніх практиках моди, визначаються художні прийоми і методи творчості в галузі моделювання костюма. Характеризується сучасний стан художнього моделювання, досліджуються історичні аспекти розвитку моди в Україні, оцінюється її стан та перспективи в контексті глобальної світової системи моди.	uk_UA
dc.language.iso	uk_UA	uk_UA
dc.publisher	Київський національний університет культури і мистецтв	uk_UA
dc.subject	мода	uk_UA
dc.subject	художні практики	uk_UA
dc.subject	художня культура	uk_UA
dc.subject	мистецький феномен	uk_UA
dc.subject	стиль	uk_UA
dc.subject	художність	uk_UA
dc.subject	модний образ	uk_UA
dc.subject	модернізм	uk_UA
dc.subject	постмодернізм	uk_UA
dc.title	МОДА В КОНТЕКСТІ ХУДОЖНІХ ПРАКТИК ХХ СТОЛІТТЯ	uk_UA
dc.title.alternative	Fashion in artistic practices of the 20th century	uk_UA
dc.type	Other	uk_UA